The Yukon Quest Trail follows the historic frontier travel routes of the Gold Rush Era. Dating back to the mid-1800’s, these routes were first connected end-to-end with the inaugural running of the Yukon Quest in 1984.
The following detailed descriptions of the Yukon Quest Trail are courtesy of 2-time Champion and 16-time Finisher John Schandelmeier. Note that the available Guide refers to the direction to be run in the upcoming 2008 race.
By John Schandelmeier
The Yukon Quest was founded on the premise that a dog driver and his team should be a self-sufficient unit; capable of challenging varied terrain and severe weather conditions. The race is a living memorial to those turn-of-the-century miners, trappers, and mail carriers who opened up the country without benefit of snowmobiles, airplanes, or roads. It was their strength and fortitude that blazed the Trail over which most of the Yukon Quest travels. Read the old authors and poets of the North and you'll learn of the Dawson Trail of Robert Service's day and the ascent of Eagle Summit by Archdeacon Hudson Stuck. Every bit of Stuck's book; Ten Thousand Miles by Dogteam, is as valid and poignant today as it was nearly 100 years ago. When you are out alone with your dogs, pitted against the elements, time ceases to be relevant.
The Yukon Quest honors the early pioneers but it is also a race. One of the basic prerequisites of any race is an established and maintained Trail. The Yukon Quest Trail has been well established over the years. Crews along the route start packing down the Trail months before race time and several snow machines precede the first teams by 6-12 hours. Reflective markers show the way. Airplanes and HAM radio operators monitor the progress of all teams and a good many cabins are made available by generous residents.
The Yukon Quest recognizes that not knowing the Trail is a distinct disadvantage for rookies. However, we also believe that the severity of this handicap can be reduced with a little common sense and some research. The Trail information given here will be helpful but it is only a general overview. Try to find a knowledgeable local at checkpoints or a race veteran who can give you detail information on the Trail ahead. Learn as much as you can in advance of the Race Start. You may find it necessary to keep a notebook. Do not rely on one person’s Trail description; quite often individuals have a different focus on the same section of Trail.
Know your own dog team; their abilities, attitude and individual strengths. Rely on your own good judgment. Check long-term weather reports before the race and at every checkpoint. They are available by phone thru the National Weather Service, or Aviation weather. Topographical maps of the Trail may be helpful, but it is sometimes difficult to recognize landmarks when running at night.
US topographic maps 1:250,000 scale for Fairbanks, Big Delta, Circle, Charley River, and Eagle available from University of Alaska Fairbanks - Geo-Data Center; 208 Elvey Drive, Fairbanks, AK 99775. 907-474-7487.
Canadian topographic maps 1:250,000 scale for Whitehorse, Labarge, Carmacks, Stewart River, and Dawson available from Mac's Fireweed Books - Map Sales; 203 Main Street, Whitehorse, YT. Y1A 2B2. 867-668-2434.
A Trail map is also posted at both the Fairbanks and Whitehorse Yukon Quest offices. Use the known speed of your dog team to estimate distance; be conservative. Snowmobilers' estimates of distance are seldom accurate.
The race organization will provide a fresh Trail ahead of the lead teams. Weather and snow conditions will determine how far ahead the machines get. Much of the route is rarely traveled other than by the race so you have to expect some soft, slow Trail. The Yukon Quest does not always have machines available to reopen the Trail should it blow in behind the lead group but does keep track of every team and tries to keep the Trail marked for everyone. In the event of snow/wind, it is best to try to stay close enough to other teams to benefit from their Trail.
You can set up a run/rest schedule of about 6 hours on/6 hours off if that works with your training routine. Err on the side of additional rest. Snack every 2-3 hours depending on weather and Trail conditions. Snacking more often may slow your team but is useful in very cold conditions or when you may need added weight on the sled. 6 hour runs on the Yukon Quest Trail @ approx. 8mph will generally get you to some type of shelter - be it a checkpoint, open cabin or a good camp location. It is okay to stop a little early on a run so as not to bypass a sheltered location. Rarely is it advantageous to run longer unless you know you are near a checkpoint where you can rest on straw. Never run more than 3 hours without a snack stop.
Treat each run between rests as a long 1-day training routine at home: same feed schedules, same care. Remember; as go the feet, so goes the dog. The Yukon Quest Trail is not necessarily a tough Trail; but it is a long one. Don't look ahead 1,000 miles, just look at the run immediately ahead of you and your team. Take care of yourself so you can take the best possible care of your animals; they are your responsibility. Be prepared to camp at -50 (F or C!) without a fire or shelter. Do not rely on artificial heat sources; they can and do fail. Have good gear that you have personally tested for yourself and your dogs. Have the expertise and means to start a quick wood fire should it be necessary. When possible, camp in the trees.
Mileages and times given are based on dog team speeds. They are my own best estimates; I trust you will find them reasonably accurate. The Trail may vary slightly from year to year.
Fairbanks - North Pole Dog Drop (Approximately 35 miles)
The Yukon Quest begins on the Chena River. The Chena is winding, well-packed with snowmobile traffic and can have wet spots; if you begin the race with booties and run into overflow continuously, wait until you get above the Nordale bridge (about 20 miles) to re-boot. Approx. 12 miles above the bridge you will leave the Chena River and run thru the Chena Lakes Recreational area. Roads and dikes for a few miles to the North Pole Dog Drop.
North Pole Dog Drop – Chena Hot Springs (Approximately 65 miles)
The first 25-30 miles are on very well-packed trails that are used by snowmobilers and other dog teams. This section is usually very well-marked but pay close attention as there are many possible turnoffs. Some markers may have been knocked down. 5-8 miles before coming up to the Chena Hot Springs Road you will begin to pass by dog yards and cross driveways. You will run alongside the road for a few miles by Valley Center. Cross the road at 27 mile at a manned road crossing.
Mile 101 Dog Drop - Central (Approx. 35 miles)
It is 5 miles to the base of Eagle Summit; expect windblown trail, some overflow and minimal markers. Follow the valley up; when the valley bends a bit South, you will go straight ahead. The climb up Eagle Summit from the Mile 101 side is relatively easy. It will be very hard-packed due to wind so it is best to remove booties to give the dogs better traction. Once on top, the actual Summit is less than 1/4 mile wide; be prepared for a very steep drop. Consider unhooking a few tugs. Be sure your load is balanced. On minimal snow years you may want to rough-lock runners. 5 miles from the top of Eagle Summit to a road crossing; it is 25 miles of mostly flat running with some overflow from the crossing to the Central checkpoint. One mile from the checkpoint you will cross the road, make a loop thru a field, come back on the road for the final ½ mile into the checkpoint. Central has very good facilities and an excellent dog holding area.
Central - Circle City (Approx. 75-80 miles)
Leaving Central, you are on a power line along the road to Circle Hot Springs for 8 miles. It is 10 more miles to Birch Creek across Medicine Lake and exposed swamps. Birch Creek is winding, endless, and generally has overflow. There is good firewood in most places. It can be cold. 45 miles from Central you will cross under a highway bridge. 4 miles beyond is Kokrine’s cabin which may be open. Ask. Ten more miles of Birch Creek. Leaving Birch Creek you have approx. 20 miles of soft trail thru scrub black spruce into the Circle checkpoint. Circle Checkpoint has good driver facilities, but the dog holding area is just so-so.
Circle - Eagle (Approx. 160-170 miles; depending on how the trail is put in)
The Yukon River ice can be rough. Prior to Race Start check on the ice conditions so you will be prepared. The Yukon River is flat running the entire way. Prevailing winds come down the Yukon River. There is a cabin 20 miles from Circle; there you will take a 5 mile detour thru some beaver sloughs then back on the Yukon River to Richard Smith’s cabin about 45 miles out. Check on cabin availability. Count on minimal trail markers. However, there is basically only one trail and it goes up the Yukon River.
Sixty miles from Circle you will reach the Dog Drop at Slaven’s Cabin. Poor spot for dogs, though sometimes there is a bit of straw. Good for drivers. 20 miles from here to the Kandik River. There is a public use cabin a short 1/2 mile inside the mouth. This is an excellent break spot. It is 40 more miles to Trout Creek; you will run thru a windblown area where it is difficult to hold markers about halfway along; expect glare ice. Seven miles out of Trout Creek there will be a short stretch of open water at the mouth of the Nation River. This section is best run in the light, either moonlight or daylight if you have the opportunity.
Trout Creek cabin (Sager’s) is usually open and has good shelter for up to 6 teams; it can be real crowded with more. You are 43 miles from Eagle. Sager’s to Eagle has one or more portages depending on ice conditions. The last is at Calico Bluffs 15 miles from Eagle. You will come up off the Yukon River at Eagle, cross the old airstrip, short run thru town and straight into the checkpoint. Facilities are good, dog holding area is better than fair.
Eagle – Dawson City (Approx. 150 miles)
The first 50 miles are on the Taylor Highway: there are mile markers. Eagle is M.P. 160. American Summit is about 20 miles out, a long continuous climb all the way from Eagle. It will be windblown on top, sidehill for a mile or so. Once you start down you are quickly in the trees; good rest areas in cover from M.P. 136 to the 40 Mile River bridge at M.P. 112. O’Brien Creek Lodge may be open at M.P. 125. Check.
At M.P. 112 you will cross the highway bridge and drop on to the 40 Mile River. It is a short 50 miles to the Yukon River. The 40 Mile is narrow, winding and fairly cold with sun only in afternoons because of the deep canyon. Some years the trail is excellent and very fast, others it has lots of overflow and is slow. It will be difficult to get reliable information for this section of trail. If there has been a recent heavy snow; expect overflow. A few miles prior to reaching the Yukon River you will cross under a bridge. Sebastian’s cabin at the old 40 Mile town site should be open and staffed. Good rest spot 50-55 miles from Dawson.
There are usually several portages from Sebastian’s into Dawson City, depending on River conditions. 35 miles from Dawson you will pass Cor Guimond’s cabin on a high bank on the south side. 20 miles from Dawson you will cross the mouth of the 15 Mile River; often overflowed, it is recognizable as the only large drainage coming in from the north side. The lights of Dawson City can be visible for quite aways, but you will get there. You will go into the Dawson City checkpoint (in town) and then backtrack to the dog holding area across the Yukon River from town.
Dawson City - Pelly Crossing (Approx. 205-215 miles)
Leaving Dawson you will be running past buildings and thru parking lots for a few miles before turning up Bonanza Creek Road. You will be on a road that is plowed at first and then turns into a good snowmobile trail. 20-25 miles to the top of King Solomon’s Dome. 20-25 miles down into Sulfur Creek/Indian River.
Up and down thru the Black Hills for 30 miles to the top of the switchbacks. Steep, descending switchbacks for a couple miles, then about 20 miles through a mining district with overflow to the Stewart River. Prior to reaching the Stewart you will leave the mining area and be in the larger timber along the Stewart. This is a good spot if you need a break. The Scroggie Creek Dog Drop is 5 miles further on; it has little to offer. The dog holding area is very poor with potential to get crowded in a hurry. Driver facilities are basically non-existent; no firewood, cold. In the past drop dog facilities have been poor also. Check.
Scroggie Creek to Stepping Stone on the Pelly River is a long 70 miles on a mining road thru rolling hills. There will be overflow on the side creeks. The only landmark easily recognizable is a small summit about mid-way; you do not climb above timber, but go up high enough where you are mostly in Alders. There is very good cover for most of this stretch.
Five miles prior to Stepping Stone you will pass the Pelly Farms. Cows. Stepping Stone usually is open and is a good stop 30 miles from Pelly Crossing. Usually river running the rest of the way to Pelly checkpoint, sometimes part of this is on a plowed road, depending on ice conditions. Pelly has good facilities and a good dog holding area.
Pelly Crossing - Carmacks: (Approx. 75-80 miles)
Brush, lakes and burn area for the relatively fast, easy, 30 mile run to McCabe Creek Dog Drop. Take care on short, steep hills. The last 5 miles is along the Klondike Highway, under a road bridge and into McCabe Creek. Good area for dogs; good for drivers; relatively quiet.
40-45 miles from McCabe Creek to Carmacks. You are down onto the Yukon River, on and off for 8 or 9 miles; expect some poor ice conditions. You will leave the Yukon and be on a woods trail for another 15 miles or so, then turn onto a good road that generally is fairly hard packed. 5 miles to Carmacks. Carmacks usually has good facilities depending on the checkpoint location. Most dogs are willing to rest most anywhere at this point.
Carmacks - Braeburn: (Approx. 70 miles)
This section of trail can be one of the most challenging on the entire race. You will be on narrow trails, creeks with overflow; some of it potentially deep. Low snow can make this section tough on sleds. However, going this direction, your team will be fairly manageable. Easily recognizable landmarks are Mandana Lake; 25 miles out of Carmacks, (first lake you will be on), and Coghlan Lake approximately 15 miles out of the Braeburn checkpoint. You will be on Coghlan Lake for about 7 miles. You cross the Klondike Highway immediately prior to the Braeburn checkpoint. Braeburn has good facilities for dogs and drivers.
Braeburn - Whitehorse: (Long 100 miles)
You will be on the Old Dawson Overland Trail for around 70 miles. Good timber on a relatively easy section of trail. There are a couple of hills that can be challenging, but mostly when going the other way. There are plenty of places to take a break; not many recognizable landmarks for the rookie. If you have questions; talk to Frank Turner. 30 miles out of Whitehorse you turn onto the Takhini River. 15-18 miles down the Takhini, under the Takhini River Bridge; 12 miles to Whitehorse. Made it.
The Yukon Quest Trail is only as tough as you allow it to be. Be prepared.
